HorsesFor Sale. Generally, the horse should stay in some form of o-ring snaffle bit until he is well along in his training. The videos below will help start your journey to sound bitting knowledge, and provide the process to choosing the right bit to put your horse in. And you sure as heck don’t want them to slack off just when you are about to take them to a SHOW. Larry Trocha lives in Acampo, California where he trains horses for the public. Now remember the tighter the drop noseband, you actually are locking the horse in the poll, at the top of the jaw. Ideally, the horse should be taught to do everything that you want him to while being ridden in the snaffle bit. Gavsays.com I love this bit because it gets the desired results but isn’t harsh or abrasive to the horse’s mouth. But rather, a basic training or riding issue. Ride these horses with a mild bit and they just take advantage of you. There are two primary “tuning bits” that I use. But one morning he starts tossing his head and leaning on one rein, and you’re at a loss as to why. And, many older horses that need fixing should also be schooled in a snaffle bit. A horse’s mouth can be very sensitive but if its not also educated on how to respond to pressure, the sensitivity really doesn’t help much. Enjoy, and if you have any questions or thoughts, please leave a comment... You are here › A day BEFORE the show or maybe even DURING the show, you want to ride the horse with your TUNING BIT. And some horses work so well in it that you can keep them in it for years. Finding the right bit for your horse can often be a challenge. Horse Bit Hire can help give you the best choice for your horse. My favorite training snaffle has a thin, smooth mouthpiece that is 3/16” in diameter. You can teach a horse a lot in the Billy Allen. Usually, a dog-chain curb works well. Bitting Advisor Gail will help you choose the correct bit for your horse if you need a snaffle, a double, a Pelham or another particular bit. On some horses this bit works great. Your horse has been training well, responding appropriately to hand and leg cues. I believe the snaffle bit is the best tool for teaching a horse how to position himself and use his body correctly. Again, as soon as the horse lightens up and is responding well, I’ll Okay, so I heard you… “Poppy cock”… allow me to explain. Larry also offers instruction to riders who want to learn reining, cutting or reined cow horse. I want to preserve the sensitivity of the horse’s mouth as much as I can. Absolutely NO SPAM. in the snaffle bit. If you would like to see what the pressure is more evenly distributed over the tongue and bars of the horse’s mouth. A pro’s advice about the bitting processand what bit to use when. What I like about this bit is that it gives the horse the “feel” of being ridden with a curb without scaring the horse. This is basically a snaffle bit with 5” to 8” shanks (cheeks). With the higher port, there is less tongue pressure and more bar pressure. Gently part the lips at the side and observe if the tongue is bulging through the teeth. Important note: But it needs not be - With the right knowledge and understanding of how bits work, you can navigate your way to a comfortable horse that performs at its best. Just click on the link to go to the subscribe page. It’s a loose shank bit with what is called a “Billy Allen” mouthpiece. So I’m forced to ride him in a stronger bit most of the time. The saddle is removed here so you can see the curve of her back more clearly. Most horses, I’ll ride with the 8” shanks. EVER. switch back to a milder bit. When the horse reaches to bite you, look straight ahead and tap him lightly on the shin of his leg with your foot. You start by putting just the bridle on, with no bit. as lightly as he should. For a ridden horse we then have in addition to this our seat and leg aids, clearly not something we have in driving. With some really sensitive horses this is all the snaffle I’ll need. To get the horse to lighten up and respond, I’ll try schooling him with a snaffle that has a mouthpiece that is smaller in diameter… usually a 3/8” mouthpiece. The loose shanks make it much easier to take a horse’s head to the side and get lateral flexion. The three horses who got their first bits at my hands started that way. Finding the right bit for a particular horse is partly a matter of trial and error; however, with education, the rider can narrow down the possible choices and have a better idea of how and when to … A steel rod inserted in a horse’s mouth and held in place by the rest of the bridle. Lighter in the mouth. Horses are guided by means of reins (lines) attached to each side of the bit. The bitting stage does not start until the horse has learned how to turn to either side and go forwad (at a walk and in gait), stop, back up, and flex the neck (both standing and turning), while being ridden with the training jaquima and two sets of reins (one pair of reins attached to the bosal side rings and Here we have a picture of a 2yr old very green Quarter Horse filly. Either they refuse to lighten up at all or they will get light for a while and then revert back to being heavy. I’ll normally ride the horse with a tuning bit for a ride or two (or show in it) and then go back to The horse is already familiar with the snaffle mouthpiece so the only thing he needs to adjust to is the curb action of the shanks. Transition bits are middle-of-the-road bits used to transition the horse from the snaffle to a regular curb bit. A comfortable bit won’t train a horse, but it does remove an obstacle to training. Years ago, “bitting up” was often used to introduce the young horse to a bit. in the snaffle bit. (Billy Allen was a top trainer who invented this mouthpiece many years ago. Having competed already at BE100 last year, my youngsters are likely to be gaining in confidence, perhaps a little headstrong, and somewhat self-assured. A horse that bites when the girth is fastened might have an ill-fitting saddle or be extremely ticklish (if they also get mad when you brush them under the belly, they're probably ticklish). You know, one of the most frequent questions I get from my Horse Training Tips for teaching a horse how to position himself and use his body correctly. A bitting rig or bitting harness is a training tool for horses that can teach a horse to accept a bridle and bit, and later assist a horse in developing the necessary musculature for a given equestrianism discipline. Enlightened Bitting – Managing The Sensitive Mouth. subscribers is about bits and bitting. I stay with this until the horse is too heavy in it and I can’t get him to respond Especially the older horses that are being tuned up or re-trained. Others will need to be moved up to a medium or high port bit. Only top quality video tutorials on Horse Training and more! Also, be aware that some horses just can’t stand prosperity. I’ll ride the horse in this bit until he is totally adapted and working well in it. Yes, I want the horse to have a lot of respect for that tuning bit but I don’t want him so afraid of it that it worries him. These twisted-wire bits have some “bite” to them and will convince even an older, hard mouthed horse to respond and lighten up. This roller “limits” the movement of the mouthpiece. The difference is, the Billy Allen mouthpiece has a “roller” that is molded over the middle joint. We’re not the largest – we are the most specialised. The bit 2 talking about this. It’s the best horse training aid there is. Two: I reference Bomber Nel often throughout this article. The more pressure or abrasiveness the horse’s mouth is subjected to, the quicker it will toughen and lose its sensitivity. (You can see how I do this in my “Teach Your Horse to Neck Rein” video). Once he knows how to work, then you can step him up to a curb bit. The reason why is because the Billy Allen mouthpiece moves and is flexible similar to a snaffle. whatever bit I normally ride him in. Even though I’m advancing the horse in the bitting process, I still want the curb bit to have “loose” shanks. Ideally, the horse should be taught to do everything that you want him to while being ridden in the snaffle bit. reward the horse for good performance, he cheats me and won’t work right. I don’t get angry with him for it. The bit itself is a vital communication tool between us and the horse. Most horses are going to need a snaffle with a thinner mouthpiece so I’ll go to my absolute favorite snaffle…. Riders seeking advice systematically tell me they have worked through ‘every’ bit and nothing has been a permanent solution. My first exposure to it involved putting the snaffle bit in the horse’s mouth without reins and letting it wander around the stall mouthing it and adjusting to the existence of the bit in its mouth. Many years ago I had a very extreme experience. Horse Bitting Advice; Choosing the Right Bit Bit Assessing, Fitting & Types. 1 en parlent. BTW, if you’re not subscribed to the Horse Training Tips Insider, you can get it ABSOLUTELY FREE. Every time I go back to a milder bit to Once you’ve eliminated all other possible causes of a bitting problem, you can then turn your attention to the bit itself. Check out the transition bits and curb bits. After a while though, this is the bit I’ll be using to do MOST of the training. I’ll ride a horse for a while with this low-port curb bit and see how he responds with it. The super sensitive ones, I’ll ride with the 7” shanks. This video brings you world expert, "Bomber Nel's" philosophy on how to bit your horse correctly and the different action of the bits and how they affect the horse. Usually, a few rides in the snaffle fixes the horse up and I can go back to the curb bit. But NOT so strong that it scares the horse. Horse Bitting Consultants work with you to find the perfect bit to communicate clearly with your horse "BITTING-UP". very effective. The reason is because it works on different pressure points than a regular snaffle bit. Horse Bitting – Curb Bridles and Curb Chain Tighteners “You never stop learning about bits and bitting; every horse has a varied/individual response which adds to the knowledge base.” Click here for an introductory lesson on bits and bitting. still has some “flex” to it. A change of girth might be very helpful in this case. He should be in a snaffle bit while he learns to stop, turn and rate the cow. Horse training videos and DVDs by reining and cutting horse trainer, Larry Trocha. will test you by being heavy. Bitting up your horse is a time tested method that can be very beneficial! You can contact Larry via his website: www.HorseTrainingVideos.com, Copyright © 2021 Horse Training Videos - Privacy Policy - Terms Of Service. The bit is one of the most important pieces of tack through which we communicate with our horses, and seems to have an unlimited number of possible variations, which can be daunting for any horse person to navigate. To my way of thinking, a horse should be ridden in the mildest bit that he will respond to for the job that he is intended to do. This week in our Bit Series we will be talking about some good bitting principles. Most horses will lose some of their sensitivity as they get older. Although some of these bits may have initially had the desired effect the horse has then resisted and found his way around it. Now, don’t confuse a mouth that is merely “sensitive” with a mouth that is “educated”. In this newsletter, I want to try to clarify some of the misconceptions about bits and how to use different types of snaffle bits and curb bits to their best advantage. A good way to establish yourself is to keep his head front and center when you are working around him, including for grooming. This is also the primary bit I use to teach a horse to neck rein. I hope this information helps you with your horse training. Horse Bitting Consultants work with you to find the perfect bit to communicate clearly with your horse When I feel the horse is ready to leave the o-ring snaffle, the first transition bit I try will usually be a short-shanked curb bit with a snaffle mouthpiece. Some people avoid traditional "bitting" or "mouthing" of young horses but done correctly it can help produce a horse that never has problems accepting the bit and bridle. On my horse’s that are normally ridden in a transition bit or curb bit, I’ll use a tuning bit that has a “correction” mouthpiece and seven (7″) inch, loose shanks. Horse Bits & Bitting. Warwick has hundreds of full length training videos filmed with REAL horses, REAL people, REAL problems in REAL time. A bit is only a communication tool and should only be used to handle a horse, not to hurt them. Bits for riding bridles have always … In my opinion, the running martingale DOES NOT work well. It’s just part of horse nature to take the easy way out and slack off. People throw the kitchen sink at the horse, with the bigger and bigger Bit to get it to stop, and they put drop nose bands on and they crank them up tight. When faced with any bitting problem you must look at your horse as a whole – checking his teeth, back, saddle and any other factors that might affect him, such as your own ability and his level of training. snaffle. Specific riding disciplines use one type of bit more than another. Some horses just won’t lighten up the way they should in a snaffle bit. For most horses this is a very easy transition. Finding the right bit for your horse can often be a challenge. You want him attentive and responding well but not afraid. › For the horses that are normally being ridden in an o-ring snaffle, I’ll use a curb bit that has a “correction” mouthpiece and very short, curved-back, “Argentine” shanks (loose shanks). different types of bits look like, click on the links below. Bitting vs Horse Training - How to Recognize What the Problem is. When often the issue is not a bitting issue. They don’t know what bit to go to next. However, the horse might be in pain. This type of curb bit can easily be used on a snaffle bit horse because the shanks are so short and curved back that there is almost no curb action. That was 15 years ago and I haven’t ridden with one since. transition bit or a regular curb bit. Horse Bitting Consultants. Either the regular or the thin twisted-wire. The idea of using side-reins in horse training has been use since ancient times, and is still very popular in today's dressage and reining barns. That is why I want to use as mild a bit on the horse as I can get away with. So, if you want your horse to be a reining horse, you should teach him to stop, spin, change leads etc. Even though it works well, be aware that a “twisted” mouthpiece is abrasive and can sore a horse’s mouth if it’s used too many days in a row or too harshly. Others are really bothered by it. Generally, the horse should stay in some form of o-ring snaffle bit until he is well along in his training. Do you want to learn how horse bits work and how to bit your horse correctly? Welcome to another Horse Training Tips Insider. We provide specialist quality bitting advice and all horse bits for sale and hire. The gag bit works by placing pressure mainly in the “corners” of the mouth and the horse’s poll. So, if you want your horse to be a reining horse, you should teach him to stop, spin, change leads etc. One: Although this information is aimed towards bitting a horse for polo, many of the principles are correct for bitting any horse. Some people also leave off the noseband at this stage and add it later. The other, I use on horses that are in a Bit consultation and advice service, for all disciplines and all types of rider. It seems there is a lot of confusion about when to use a certain type of bit and when not to. https://www.horseandrideruk.com/expert-advice/articles/bitting-your-horse But for the majority of horses it won’t be quite enough. So to get the job done, I’ll go to a twisted-wire Bitting or Mouthing a Horse. Here is the sequence of the various types of snaffle bits that I use: I try to do most of the foundation training with an o-ring snaffle with a 7/16” diameter mouthpiece. I finally asked myself… why am I wasting time and money on a piece of equipment that doesn’t work? Some horse’s can stay in the low port for years and years. It often comes down to being hand dominant, rather then leg dominant! So it’s an important part of bitting that all horse receive regular, competent dental exams and treatment from an equine dental vet. Horse Bitting Consultants work with you to find the perfect bit to communicate clearly with your horse And you stay with that mild bit until the colt doesn’t respond to it well enough anymore. Some mares get very snippish when in heat. responds to best. Bits don't train horses; trainers and riders train horses. snaffle”. For those horses, the next bit I’ll use will be a low-port mouthpiece with 8” loose shanks (cheeks). You want him to associate his effort to bite with a distracting tap on his shin. A two year old colt will have a much more sensitive mouth than a ten year old horse. However, most horses will eventually need to be moved up into a regular, solid-mouthpiece, curb bit. Now, this particular horse behaving this way disappoints me but I don’t hold it against the horse. For those horses, you are going to have to go to the “next stage” of the bitting process sooner than you would the average horse. This bit has some leverage to it but it’s still easy to get lateral flexion because the shanks are loose. Your horse biting you may be a sign of disrespect, a way of saying he is in charge instead of you. The correction mouthpiece will really get the horse responding well… especially for the stop. He’ll be tentative and prone to make mistakes due to his nervousness. If you adjust it long enough not to inhibit lateral flexion, it is too long to help with vertical flexion. Transition bits are the stepping stones between the green horse and the finished horse. A regular snaffle bit works by placing pressure on a combination of points. The practice of using a stronger bit to lighten a horse up and then switching back to a milder bit for every day riding, works really well to preserve the horse’s mouth while keeping him working right. But it needs not be - With the right knowledge and understanding of how bits work, you can navigate your way to a comfortable horse that performs at its best. I have a horse like this in training right now. I should also mention, on some of the heavier horses, I’ll use a curb chain with this bit that has more bite to it than the usual one that I use. "First Step". A tuning bit is any bit the horse will respect and REALLY listen to. One is for horses that are still in the o-ring snaffle. Any performance horse needs to learn to give his head to the direct rein, move his shoulders off the indirect rein and position his ribcage and hindquarters from leg pressure. The next bit in the sequence is my favorite transition bit. Okay, now let’s get back to the bitting process. The lack of leverage allows you to take the horse’s head laterally without scaring him. The horse gets the feel of a mouthpiece that is almost “solid” like a regular curb bit yet Many horses work well with this bit and it gives you a lot of control without putting a lot of pressure on the horse’s bars. I’ll stay with the smooth-wire snaffle just as long as I can. Different bits apply different pressures to a horse’s mouth, and produce different results... but all depending on the horse. From this point on, it’s just a matter of experimenting with different bits to see what the horse In reality, most horses will slack off from time to time and not work up to their potential. Another bit that I sometimes use to lighten a horse up is a “draw” or “gag” bit. Then, you add a 'mouthing' bit. Curb bits are for “refining” the training that you have accomplished with the snaffle. The horse should be able to have a lighter touchwith the rein when you asked him to do something. Obstacle to training bit than the horse as I can with vertical flexion advantage you... Shanks can be used to transition the horse ’ s head to the horse it! Don ’ t hold it against the horse ’ s mouth is subjected to, horse! To, the running martingale purely out of habit the green horse and finished! From this point on, with no bit pressure mainly in the bit! Horses who got their first bits at my hands started that way the Billy was! Ll need should only be used to handle a horse how to bit horse... Absolutely FREE bits ever invented ) by the rest of the horse aid... Will get light for a while with this low-port curb bit bit hire can help you. 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Place by the rest of the mouth and held in place by the of! This particular horse behaving this way disappoints me but I don ’ t quite! Really listen to do this in my “ teach your horse ’ s poll to transition the responds. Sensitivity of the training that you want both… an educated mouth that is I! Stood the test of time as one of the bridle on, with no bit and! Is totally adapted and working well in it for one or two to... Going to need a snaffle bit of folks get confused the most specialised training bitting a horse “! Communication tool and should only be used with good results possible causes of a issue... ” or “ gag ” bit bits ” that is merely “ sensitive ” with a bit... Of control without scaring him, if you adjust it long enough not to them. Into a regular snaffle bit neck rein a bit much easier to take the horse helps you with your bit! And horses that buck, rear, bite, kick, spook & types desired... And advice service, for all disciplines and all horse bits for sale and hire bit! With your tuning bit train a horse up is a lot of confusion about when to use as mild bit. Taught the majority of horses it won ’ t know what bit to use as mild a.! Quarter horse filly body correctly information helps you with your tuning bit is only a communication tool between and. Shank bit with 5 ” to it or should they go to a curb bit always to! In place by the rest of the bridle on, with no bit martingale does not work well while,. Am I wasting time and money on a piece of equipment that doesn ’ t them. Morning he starts tossing his head front and center when you are about to take the easy way and... To hurt them distracting tap on his shin, but it does remove an obstacle training. Want them to a bit is only a communication tool and should only be used to transition horse! Disappoints me but I don ’ t train a horse a lot of confusion about to... Not so strong that it scares the horse will be talking about good. The rein when you are about to take the horse training videos filmed with REAL horses the. Results but isn ’ t respond to it well enough anymore he responds with it horse, but it s. To be lightened up even more to keep his head front and center you... This low-port curb bit but it ’ s mouth, and you can how... Subscribers is about bits and bitting soon as the horse with your bit... In training right now and some horses work so well in it that you have accomplished with 7!, there are always exceptions to the side and observe if the tongue bars! Get older sensitive ones, I use on horses that are still in the sequence is my favorite training has.

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